Skip to main content

De Bethune DB28 GS SWORDFISH Review: A Cutting-Edge Luxury Dive Watch

De Bethune is revered for their independent spirit and relentless pursuit of horological perfection. This Swiss watchmaker has once again pushed the boundaries with the De Bethune DB28 GS SWORDFISH, no ordinary dive watch which is a fusion of avant-garde technology, cutting-edge materials, and uncompromising craftsmanship—engineered to perform with surgical precision in the most extreme underwater conditions, both day and night.

De Bethune DB28 GS SWORDFISH wristwatch

Crafted to be more than just a luxury timepiece, the DB28 GS SWORDFISH is a purpose-built diver’s watch that champions legibility, durability, and performance. It brings together De Bethune’s most revered innovations—including a mechanical dial illumination system powered entirely by a dynamo—and the brand’s celebrated aesthetic of titanium, zirconium, and sapphire crystal. The result is a timepiece that not only commands attention on the wrist but is fully capable of withstanding the rigors of deep-sea exploration.

From its bold 44mm black zirconium case to the hand-wound DB2080 calibre beating within, every element of the DB28 GS SWORDFISH speaks of mastery. It combines technical complexity with a streamlined design language that appeals to modern watch connoisseurs who appreciate innovation not as a gimmick, but as an essential part of functionality.

A New Vision of the Luxury Dive Watch


When one hears the term “dive watch,” images of rugged steel cases, functional bezels, and hefty waterproofing often come to mind. But De Bethune, ever the contrarian in haute horlogerie, redefines the category with the DB28 GS SWORDFISH—a timepiece that marries technical performance with a design philosophy rooted in artistic boldness. This is not simply a dive instrument; it’s an avant-garde expression of underwater exploration.

Dive watches typically prioritize utility. De Bethune, however, has managed to harmonize form and function to produce a luxury watch that exceeds expectations in both realms. The DB28 GS SWORDFISH doesn’t just tell time—it communicates an ethos of innovation and independence. Designed to perform flawlessly in challenging environments—including low visibility underwater conditions—it remains effortlessly stylish above the surface.

But what truly sets this model apart from its peers in the realm of high-end mechanical watches is its fusion of contemporary materials like black zirconium and grade 5 titanium with time-honored horological techniques. Add to this De Bethune’s patented balance technologies, a dynamo-powered mechanical dial light, and a striking aesthetic, and you have a watch that doesn’t just challenge conventional thinking—it reinvents it.

Whether you’re an experienced diver or a discerning collector of luxury timepieces, the DB28 GS SWORDFISH is a statement of sophisticated engineering that feels just as at home in the ocean depths as it does in the boardroom.

Striking Design That Commands the Wrist


At first glance, the De Bethune DB28 GS SWORDFISH makes a bold visual statement. But beyond its dramatic silhouette and futuristic materials lies a design that is purpose-driven, refined, and loaded with subtle technical prowess. The name “Swordfish” is a fitting metaphor for this watch—it’s sleek, fast, and built for performance in the most demanding aquatic environments.

Measuring 44 mm in diameter and just 12.8 mm thick, the DB28 GS SWORDFISH has a balanced presence on the wrist. It doesn’t overwhelm, nor does it disappear. Its size is carefully calibrated to provide excellent visibility in underwater conditions, while the unique floating lug system, first patented by De Bethune in 2006, ensures the watch conforms to the wrist with unmatched comfort. Whether you’re wearing a wetsuit or a tailored cuff, the DB28 GS SWORDFISH adapts effortlessly.

De Bethune DB28 GS SWORDFISH men's wristwatch

The combination of black brushed and polished hardened stainless steel for the bezel and caseback, paired with a black zirconium case middle featuring a microlight decoration, creates a highly technical and industrial feel. Yet, true to De Bethune’s ethos, there’s a sense of elegance that tempers the aggressive styling. Blued polished titanium inserts in the lugs subtly echo the brand’s signature palette and add a luxurious touch that seasoned collectors will appreciate.

The watch is water-resistant to 10 ATM (100 meters), making it fully capable of recreational diving and aquatic exploration. The sapphire crystal, boasting 1800 Vickers hardness and treated with a double anti-reflective coating, ensures scratch resistance and optimal readability in all lighting conditions.

Unlike many other luxury dive watches that rely on sheer mass and sporty clichés, the DB28 GS SWORDFISH presents a more intellectual, architectural interpretation. Its design language doesn’t scream utility—it whispers innovation. Every element is deliberate, every angle calculated, resulting in a timepiece that is as much a sculpture as it is a survival tool.

Black Zirconium Case: Rugged and Refined


The heart of the De Bethune DB28 GS SWORDFISH lies in its remarkable case construction. While many watchmakers opt for traditional stainless steel or titanium for their dive watches, De Bethune elevates the genre with an ultra-modern black zirconium case middle, showcasing the brand’s mastery of materials and finishing techniques.

Zirconium is not commonly used in watchmaking due to its difficulty to machine, but De Bethune embraces the challenge to harness its unique benefits. This rare metal offers exceptional corrosion resistance, critical for a watch designed to withstand the rigors of saltwater environments. It is also hypoallergenic and remarkably lightweight—two attributes that make it highly desirable in the realm of high-end sports watches.

What truly sets the case apart is its microlight decoration—a subtle, striated texture that adds visual depth while improving tactile grip. This isn’t mere ornamentation; it serves a purpose, ensuring the watch is easier to handle with wet or gloved hands. Surrounding the zirconium case is a brushed and polished hardened stainless steel bezel and caseback, creating a contrasting interplay between matte and gloss finishes that reflect the brand’s architectural design sensibility.

At 12 o’clock sits the screw-down crown, maintaining symmetry while optimizing ergonomic function. It controls the watch’s time-setting functions across two positions, and its positioning avoids pressure points on the wrist—a thoughtful consideration for those who wear their watch on long dives or extended adventures.

The open caseback, crafted from polished hardened stainless steel, allows a partial glimpse into the horological universe within. It serves as a bold reminder that the DB28 GS SWORDFISH is not just a dive watch—it’s a mechanical work of art built for extreme conditions. This juxtaposition of rugged form and refined execution is where De Bethune thrives, and nowhere is it more evident than in this cutting-edge case architecture.

De Bethune DB28 GS SWORDFISH men's diver watch

A Dial Made for the Depths


The dial of the De Bethune DB28 GS SWORDFISH is a masterpiece of functionality and clarity. Designed specifically for the demands of diving, it guarantees optimal legibility whether you’re submerged in the darkness of the ocean or at the surface with blinding sunlight reflecting off the water. Unlike typical dive watches, which often rely on stark, high-contrast dials, the DB28 GS SWORDFISH embraces simplicity and efficiency.

At the center of the dial is a black satin-brushed grade 5 titanium minutes ring, meticulously crafted to ensure that every minute count is easily readable under all conditions. The use of titanium—a lightweight yet incredibly strong material—adds another layer of durability, ensuring the dial remains resilient against the elements, including corrosive seawater. In keeping with De Bethune’s commitment to performance, the cut-out Arabic numerals further enhance readability without compromising the watch’s sleek aesthetic. These numerals are subtly integrated into the dial, ensuring that the overall design remains clean and minimalist.

An important feature for any diving timepiece is the ability to measure immersion duration accurately. The DB28 GS SWORDFISH incorporates a unidirectional rotating bezel with a metallized minutes ring, allowing divers to easily track elapsed time while submerged. The bezel’s design ensures that accidental rotation is avoided, providing additional peace of mind when timing underwater activities. The rotation mechanism is smooth yet firm, offering precise control and effortless engagement during underwater excursions.

Another standout feature of the dial is the power reserve indicator, located between the 9 and 10 o’clock positions. This subtle yet crucial complication serves as a reminder of the watch’s remaining energy, ensuring that the wearer can gauge when a wind-up is needed—especially important when engaging in extended diving sessions. The mechanical power reserve display is an understated yet essential component of the DB28 GS SWORDFISH, offering functionality without disrupting the elegant flow of the design.

The hands, crafted from titanium, reflect De Bethune’s signature aesthetic of merging art with technology. The hours and minutes hands feature black polished steel inserts, while the seconds hand is made from polished blued titanium. Each hand is equipped with luminous tips to ensure visibility even in low-light conditions, a critical feature for those navigating the ocean depths where daylight is scarce.

This dial is not just for telling time—it’s a work of mechanical artistry designed with one primary goal: maximum readability and reliability in the most challenging underwater conditions.

Mechanical Genius Beneath the Surface: DB2080 Calibre


At the heart of the De Bethune DB28 GS SWORDFISH lies the DB2080 mechanical hand-wound movement, a masterpiece that reflects the brand’s unwavering commitment to precision and innovation. The DB2080 is a true horological marvel, carefully engineered to deliver reliable timekeeping in any environment—whether on land, sea, or deep beneath the ocean’s surface. This movement is not just a tool to measure time; it’s a testament to De Bethune’s philosophy of combining cutting-edge technology with the traditional craftsmanship of Swiss watchmaking.

The DB2080 calibre boasts an impressive 30mm diameter and is composed of 400 individual parts. It is a testament to the brand’s craftsmanship, with the movement meticulously assembled and adjusted to perfection. The bridge, crafted from mirror-polished and blued grade 5 titanium, reflects De Bethune’s signature aesthetic—futuristic yet grounded in traditional watchmaking values. The plate and barrel bridge covers are made of hand-smoothed grade 5 titanium and are adorned with the brand’s “Microlight” engraving, a subtle yet distinctive touch that showcases the level of attention to detail present throughout the movement.

De Bethune DB28 GS SWORDFISH men's diver watch caliber

One of the standout features of the DB2080 movement is the self-regulating twin barrel system, an innovation pioneered by De Bethune in 2004. This system ensures that the watch maintains consistent power distribution throughout its impressive 5-day power reserve, even during extreme conditions. The twin barrels work in tandem to provide long-lasting energy, reducing friction and wear, while the hand-snailing of the barrels adds an extra layer of fine finishing.

The balance wheel, another key component of the movement, is crafted from titanium with white gold inserts—a De Bethune patent introduced in 2016. This choice of material provides a highly stable balance and superior performance in temperature variations, essential for a dive watch that needs to operate flawlessly in fluctuating underwater conditions. Complementing this is the brand’s balance-spring with flat terminal curve, a patented system from 2006 that optimizes timekeeping accuracy.

Additionally, the DB2080 movement incorporates a silicon escape wheel, reducing friction and increasing the longevity of the watch. The movement also features the triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system (introduced by De Bethune in 2005), offering exceptional protection against shocks and impacts—crucial for a watch that might face the occasional bump while navigating the challenging aquatic world.

This intricate and innovative movement is designed to offer the wearer not just an accurate timepiece, but a robust, high-performance mechanism built to endure the harshest underwater environments.

Exclusive De Bethune Innovations


De Bethune’s commitment to technological innovation is what truly sets them apart from many other high-end watchmakers. Their creations often feature proprietary systems and patented mechanisms that push the boundaries of what is possible in horology. The DB28 GS SWORDFISH is no exception, with numerous innovations that elevate its performance and functionality.

Among these is the aforementioned self-regulating twin barrel system, which ensures consistent power delivery and extends the power reserve. This technology, first introduced in 2004, eliminates the need for constant winding, making the watch more practical for everyday use. The titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, a De Bethune patent from 2016, is another breakthrough. It ensures exceptional stability and superior accuracy across a wide range of temperatures, a feature that is particularly beneficial for underwater watches where temperature fluctuations are common.

De Bethune’s innovative balance-spring with flat terminal curve—a patent from 2006—enhances the movement’s performance by ensuring that the balance wheel operates with minimal disturbance, resulting in better timekeeping accuracy. These groundbreaking features combine to create a movement that is not only robust and reliable but also a marvel of modern engineering.

The Microlight engraving on the movement’s components is another distinctive De Bethune touch, a technical engraving technique that is exclusive to the brand. This not only adds an artistic flair but also ensures the mechanical parts are more resistant to wear, increasing their lifespan and reliability. With such innovative touches, the DB28 GS SWORDFISH stands as a perfect example of De Bethune’s ability to merge artistry with functionality.

De Bethune DB28 GS SWORDFISH men's diver timepiece

Lighting the Depths: Mechanical Dial Illumination


One of the standout features of the De Bethune DB28 GS SWORDFISH is its entirely mechanical dial lighting system. This innovative function, introduced by De Bethune in 2019, allows the wearer to read the time even in complete darkness—without the need for any electronic components or batteries. This system works on the dynamo principle, with the energy generated by the watch’s movement being used to power the dial illumination.

The system is activated via a push-button located on the case, providing an extra layer of convenience when diving in environments where visibility is compromised. The mechanical lighting is a nod to traditional watchmaking, demonstrating that De Bethune can combine old-world craftsmanship with modern innovation in ways that are both functional and sustainable. It’s a system that perfectly aligns with the brand’s philosophy of blending performance with aesthetics.

Whether you’re diving into the abyss or exploring caves with minimal light, the dial lighting system ensures that the time remains legible when it’s most needed. This feature, combined with the watch’s luminescent hands and luminous markers, gives the DB28 GS SWORDFISH an unrivaled advantage in low-light conditions.

Wearing the Swordfish: Comfort and Versatility


Despite its bold design and advanced technical features, the De Bethune DB28 GS SWORDFISH is surprisingly comfortable on the wrist. The floating lugs, a patented De Bethune innovation from 2006, ensure that the watch conforms to the shape of the wrist without any discomfort. These lugs are made from black brushed hardened stainless steel and feature blued polished titanium inserts, adding to the overall aesthetic while improving fit and comfort. The design of the lugs allows the watch to move with the wrist, making it incredibly versatile for wear, whether diving, swimming, or simply going about your daily activities.

The natural rubber strap, accompanied by an additional canvas/leather strap, provides options for both practicality and style. The folding clasp in black brushed hardened stainless steel ensures that the watch stays securely in place, even during rigorous activities like diving or high-impact sports.

What stands out most about wearing the DB28 GS SWORDFISH is how seamlessly it integrates comfort with technical prowess. It’s a watch that you can rely on in the toughest conditions, yet one that feels effortless when worn day-to-day. Whether on a dive trip or at a business meeting, the DB28 GS SWORDFISH is designed to be as functional as it is stylish.



Conclusion: A Dive Watch Like No Other


The De Bethune DB28 GS SWORDFISH is more than just a dive watch; it’s a true engineering marvel. With its futuristic design, exceptional craftsmanship, and exclusive innovations, it sets a new standard for what a luxury dive watch can be. This timepiece combines the elegance and sophistication that De Bethune is known for with the rugged performance required for extreme underwater adventures.

Whether you’re exploring the deep blue sea or simply admiring it from afar, the DB28 GS SWORDFISH ensures you never lose track of time. With its 5-day power reserve, self-regulating twin barrel, and mechanical lighting system, it’s a timepiece built to last in the harshest environments while remaining a symbol of horological excellence.

For those who demand the best in both style and substance, the DB28 GS SWORDFISH stands as a true icon of modern watchmaking—a dive watch that is as capable as it is captivating.


[photo credits: De Bethune / www.debethune.ch]


Also, consider exploring this:

De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon Review

Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune Watch

De Bethune DW5 Al-Amal Timepiece


Comments

Popular Articles:

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication - La Première: The Most Complicated Wristwatch Ever Made

Andreas Strehler’s Papillon d’Or Timepiece - The Wings of Gold

MB&F Horological Machine N°9 Sapphire Vision: A Transparent Masterpiece of Horology

Kross Studio MT1 Chronomètre Tourbillon 7 Jours Wristwatch

Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Sapphire Blue - A Transparent Marvel of Haute Horlogerie