The De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is a striking example of haute horology at its finest. Known for its avant-garde designs and pioneering technical innovations, De Bethune has once again pushed the boundaries of contemporary watchmaking with this timepiece. The DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon combines cutting-edge technology with traditional craftsmanship, resulting in a watch that is not only visually captivating but also mechanically exceptional.
In this detailed review, we will explore the key features of the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon, including its design, movement, materials, and overall performance. Whether you are a seasoned collector or a watch enthusiast, this timepiece is sure to impress with its unique aesthetics and high-level precision.
Before delving into the specifics of the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon, it is essential to understand the brand’s legacy. Founded in 2002 by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet, De Bethune is renowned for its futuristic yet timeless designs. The brand is known for blending traditional watchmaking techniques with innovative materials and groundbreaking technologies.
Over the years, De Bethune has introduced several notable watches, such as the DB28, which won the Aiguille d’Or at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2011. The DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is a modern evolution of that award-winning design, offering an even sleeker and more refined aesthetic.
The DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is a visually arresting watch that immediately commands attention. Its skeletonized dial, hand-crafted finishing, and signature floating lugs make it an unmistakable De Bethune creation. Let’s break down its design elements:
The watch features a grade 5 titanium case that is both lightweight and durable. Measuring just 9.1mm in thickness, the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon case is being considered a typical "average thin". Despite its profile, the watch retains a bold presence on the wrist with a diameter of 43mm.
The polished titanium surface gives the watch a modern and luxurious feel, while the curved case design ensures a comfortable fit.
One of De Bethune’s signature design features is its patented floating lugs. These articulated lugs allow the watch to adapt to the wrist, providing an unparalleled level of comfort. This makes the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon not only a visual marvel but also a pleasure to wear.
The dial of the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is a masterpiece in itself. The skeletonized design reveals the intricate movement beneath, allowing wearers to admire the inner workings of the watch. The symmetrical layout and three-dimensional architecture create a sense of depth that is rarely seen in contemporary watchmaking.
The blued titanium bridge, a hallmark of De Bethune, adds a striking contrast to the silver elements of the dial. The hands are made of polished titanium, ensuring optimal legibility while maintaining the watch’s futuristic aesthetic.
The highlight of the dial is the mesmerizing Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon positioned at 6 o’clock. The ultra-light tourbillon cage weighs just 0.18 grams and is made from titanium and silicon, ensuring high-speed precision and minimal friction. The tourbillon operates at an impressive 36,000 beats per hour, a rarity in the world of tourbillon watches.
The DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is powered by De Bethune’s in-house caliber DB2009V6. This mechanical hand-wound movement is a testament to the brand’s commitment to innovation and precision.
Most traditional tourbillons operate at 21,600 or 28,800 vibrations per hour, but De Bethune’s tourbillon runs at a remarkable 36,000 vibrations per hour. This higher frequency enhances the accuracy of the watch by reducing the impact of positional errors.
The lightweight construction of the ultra-light tourbillon cage (made from titanium and silicon) further contributes to its efficiency. The entire assembly completes one full rotation every 30 seconds, twice as fast as a conventional tourbillon.
Despite its high-frequency movement, the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon boasts an impressive 5-day power reserve. This is achieved through the use of a self-regulating twin barrel system, which ensures a consistent flow of energy to the movement.
De Bethune is known for its meticulous hand-finishing, and the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is no exception. The movement features a combination of polished, blued, and micro-sandblasted finishes, demonstrating the brand’s dedication to artisanal craftsmanship.
Despite its avant-garde design, the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is incredibly comfortable to wear. The combination of a lightweight titanium case and floating lugs ensures that the watch sits perfectly on the wrist.
The watch comes with an alligator leather strap, which adds a touch of classic elegance to the futuristic design. The titanium pin buckle provides a secure and comfortable fit.
The De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon stands out in the world of high-end tourbillon watches, but how does it compare to other notable timepieces? Let’s take a quick look:
While each of these watches is exceptional in its own right, the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon stands out due to its futuristic design and high-frequency tourbillon.
The De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is a true masterpiece that combines innovative technology with stunning aesthetics. With its high-frequency tourbillon, lightweight titanium construction, and unique floating lugs, this watch is a perfect blend of form and function.
✔ Lightweight titanium case
✔ High-frequency (5 Hz) tourbillon for superior accuracy
✔ Stunning skeletonized dial with three-dimensional architecture
✔ Patented floating lugs for exceptional comfort
✔ 5-day power reserve
✘ Limited availability and high price point
✘ Bold design may not appeal to traditionalists
For collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate cutting-edge watchmaking, the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is a must-have. It represents the pinnacle of modern horology and solidifies De Bethune’s reputation as one of the most innovative independent watchmakers in the world.
(photo credits: De Bethune / www.debethune.ch)
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A Brief History of De Bethune
Before delving into the specifics of the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon, it is essential to understand the brand’s legacy. Founded in 2002 by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet, De Bethune is renowned for its futuristic yet timeless designs. The brand is known for blending traditional watchmaking techniques with innovative materials and groundbreaking technologies.
Over the years, De Bethune has introduced several notable watches, such as the DB28, which won the Aiguille d’Or at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2011. The DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is a modern evolution of that award-winning design, offering an even sleeker and more refined aesthetic.
Design and Aesthetics: A Work of Art on the Wrist
The DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is a visually arresting watch that immediately commands attention. Its skeletonized dial, hand-crafted finishing, and signature floating lugs make it an unmistakable De Bethune creation. Let’s break down its design elements:
1. Titanium Case
The watch features a grade 5 titanium case that is both lightweight and durable. Measuring just 9.1mm in thickness, the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon case is being considered a typical "average thin". Despite its profile, the watch retains a bold presence on the wrist with a diameter of 43mm.
The polished titanium surface gives the watch a modern and luxurious feel, while the curved case design ensures a comfortable fit.
2. Floating Lugs for Ultimate Comfort
One of De Bethune’s signature design features is its patented floating lugs. These articulated lugs allow the watch to adapt to the wrist, providing an unparalleled level of comfort. This makes the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon not only a visual marvel but also a pleasure to wear.
3. Skeletonized Dial with Stunning Depth
The dial of the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is a masterpiece in itself. The skeletonized design reveals the intricate movement beneath, allowing wearers to admire the inner workings of the watch. The symmetrical layout and three-dimensional architecture create a sense of depth that is rarely seen in contemporary watchmaking.
The blued titanium bridge, a hallmark of De Bethune, adds a striking contrast to the silver elements of the dial. The hands are made of polished titanium, ensuring optimal legibility while maintaining the watch’s futuristic aesthetic.
4. Tourbillon at 6 O’Clock
The highlight of the dial is the mesmerizing Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon positioned at 6 o’clock. The ultra-light tourbillon cage weighs just 0.18 grams and is made from titanium and silicon, ensuring high-speed precision and minimal friction. The tourbillon operates at an impressive 36,000 beats per hour, a rarity in the world of tourbillon watches.
Movement: Cutting-Edge Horology at Its Best
The DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is powered by De Bethune’s in-house caliber DB2009V6. This mechanical hand-wound movement is a testament to the brand’s commitment to innovation and precision.
1. High-Frequency Tourbillon
Most traditional tourbillons operate at 21,600 or 28,800 vibrations per hour, but De Bethune’s tourbillon runs at a remarkable 36,000 vibrations per hour. This higher frequency enhances the accuracy of the watch by reducing the impact of positional errors.
The lightweight construction of the ultra-light tourbillon cage (made from titanium and silicon) further contributes to its efficiency. The entire assembly completes one full rotation every 30 seconds, twice as fast as a conventional tourbillon.
2. Impressive 5-Day Power Reserve
Despite its high-frequency movement, the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon boasts an impressive 5-day power reserve. This is achieved through the use of a self-regulating twin barrel system, which ensures a consistent flow of energy to the movement.
3. Hand-Finished to Perfection
De Bethune is known for its meticulous hand-finishing, and the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is no exception. The movement features a combination of polished, blued, and micro-sandblasted finishes, demonstrating the brand’s dedication to artisanal craftsmanship.
Wearability and Comfort: A Lightweight Marvel
Despite its avant-garde design, the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is incredibly comfortable to wear. The combination of a lightweight titanium case and floating lugs ensures that the watch sits perfectly on the wrist.
The watch comes with an alligator leather strap, which adds a touch of classic elegance to the futuristic design. The titanium pin buckle provides a secure and comfortable fit.
Comparisons with Other Tourbillon Watches
The De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon stands out in the world of high-end tourbillon watches, but how does it compare to other notable timepieces? Let’s take a quick look:
|
Feature: |
De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon |
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#3 |
Patek Philippe Grand Complications Tourbillon 5316P |
|---|---|---|---|
|
Case Material |
Grade 5 Titanium |
Stainless Steel |
Platinum |
|
Case Thickness |
9.1mm | 8.1mm | 13.23mm |
|
Movement |
Manual-Winding DB2009v6 |
Automatic Caliber 2968 |
Manual-Winding R TO 27 PS |
|
Tourbillon Frequency |
36,000 vph (5Hz) |
21,600 vph (3Hz) |
21,600 vph (3Hz) |
|
Power Reserve |
120 Hours |
50 Hours |
48 Hours |
|
Jewels |
40 |
33 | 28 |
| Unique Feature | High-speed tourbillon, floating lugs |
Ultra-thin tourbillon |
Minute-repeater, perpetual calendar, moonphase |
While each of these watches is exceptional in its own right, the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon stands out due to its futuristic design and high-frequency tourbillon.
Final Verdict: Is the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon Worth It?
The De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is a true masterpiece that combines innovative technology with stunning aesthetics. With its high-frequency tourbillon, lightweight titanium construction, and unique floating lugs, this watch is a perfect blend of form and function.
Pros:
✔ Lightweight titanium case
✔ High-frequency (5 Hz) tourbillon for superior accuracy
✔ Stunning skeletonized dial with three-dimensional architecture
✔ Patented floating lugs for exceptional comfort
✔ 5-day power reserve
Cons:
✘ Limited availability and high price point
✘ Bold design may not appeal to traditionalists
For collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate cutting-edge watchmaking, the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is a must-have. It represents the pinnacle of modern horology and solidifies De Bethune’s reputation as one of the most innovative independent watchmakers in the world.
(photo credits: De Bethune / www.debethune.ch)
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